Tuesday, October 27, 2009

vancouver

After an almost wintery escape in the Rocky Mountains, it was time to begin the search for Canadian cool.

Namely: Vancouver.


In my mind I saw a shiny, new city full of shiny, outdoors loving, nature fiends. Everyone I knew who had moved from Sydney to Vancouver had done so to appreciate lakes, mountains and parks and to take advantage of biking and skiing opportunities. So, once again, I was out to have my expectations washed away.

And like every other time, my preconceptions were wrong.

Or, more that what I had seen as a potentially negative aspect of Vancouver ended up being what I embraced.

For all those who have not yet experienced the utter joy that is Vancouver- a run down. Vancouver is a city set on the Western coastline of Canada a couple of hours north of Seattle. It is protected from the harsh winters tolerated by inner Canada, and instead is based around harbours, inlets and urban beaches.

The heart of the city to me feels to be Stanley Park- an immense zone of green where cyclists and bladers mix with racoons, squirrels and skunks (apparently even bears!). Unlike any other major city, the CBD is devoid of hustle and panic. Instead, immaculately dressed workers and students ride single gear bicycles complete with wicker baskets.

The city truly is a collection of quite independent villages, each with their own spirit. From the relaxed vibe of Kits Beach, the truly unique carnival feel of the hamlet under the bridge Granville Island to the more traditional foodie district of Yaletown, and night-zone of Gastown, Vancouver has so much to offer.


It seems to be a city very content within itself, rather than striving to be something else to everyone. This strikes me as something quite different to Australia, and indeed very pleasing. Whilst Sydney defines itself with reference to Melbourne, and Brisbane strives to find its own spot, Vancouver accepts its diversity quite willingly.

This contentment allowed us to experience truly diverse aspects of the city. Highlights included cycling through Stanley Park, where we hand-fed a family of wild racoons we spotted on an ice-cream detour.

As we cycled along the sea wall path, we spotted a series of hundreds upon hundreds of stacks of rocks. It seems that it was an unpronounced tradition to gather your own pile of pebbles and leave your own mark upon Vancouver, in the most fantastic way imaginable. So of course, we obliged.

Other stand out experiences included mixing it up with attendees at the Vancouver Fringe Festival, held at Granville Island. Granville is not actually an island as such, but a district that exists under a bridge in a sort of chaotic, carnival sort of way. Also, watching a local ska-funk night in a tiny jazz club with about six other people…

Vancouver is filled with the hipsters we have come to know and love around the world, but unlike the ones which occupy Surry Hills in Sydney, the Valley in Brisbane, the Mission in San Fran or Silver Lake in LA, they are positively inoffensive in BC. They walk around the streets with smiles on their faces, engage in conversation and display none of the intellectual arrogance the wannabe musos and poets of Sydney wear as a badge of honour.

Indeed, my travel companion S and I nearly started a dance off in the middle of Urban Outfitters. Whilst gazing lovingly at their collection of witty t-shirts and Where The Wild Things Are merchandise, Cut Copy began playing throughout the store. We had a momentary pang of homesickness, and proceeded to begin crumping inelegantly in the middle of the store, much to the amusement of the more subdued Canadians.

Vancouver is amazing. I love the Canadian government for making it so easy for young Australians to get a working visa. I intend on doing this the moment I have finished university. I feel Vancouver may be my spiritual homeground.

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